19 April 2010

Inflated E-grades

Debate/Jens: Three years ago, 8a stated that the E-grade converter are wrong as it suggest that the British climbers frequently does 8c and above on trad. Rockfax/UK-climbing changed it beacuse of 8a but even so, it is still dead wrong. Ukclimbing reports that Garreth Parry has done The big Issue, E9 6C with preplaced gear for which Gaz suggest 8a+ and says, "All the wires are good and it is a safe route." According to the (because of 8a) updated Rockfax converter an E9 is between 8b+ to 8c+. It should be noted that worldwide very few 8b+ trad ascents have been made but in UK, this happends often all the way up to ~9a+/E12. (c) Gaz Parry and here are some comments from him.
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