Improve quicker through technical and tactical sessions

Everyone seems to think that the shortcut to improvement is through physical indoor training. This is probably wrong unless you are a competition climber. If you want to climb harder grades outdoors, especially do onsights, you will improve faster doing some technical and tactical sessions. The dilemma is of course that it is so easy just to follow a physical endurance or maximum power programme compared to doing some training where you actually have to think and challenge yourself also mentally. Here are some exercises that will help you progress technically and tactically. 1. Rainbow onsight - Combine hard colored routes to create new routes 2. One foot - Challenge easier routes using just your left or right foot 3. Exclude holds - Skip some holds for both your hands and feet, forcing yourself to go out of the comfort zone 4. Speed & Stop - Speed climb the routes but add two 1 minute Stop holds PS The most effective training per minutes invested overall is stretching and fall training but that is so frustrating...