8 February 2024

IFSC introduces policy to combat RED-S

The IFSC has introduced comprehensive regulations related to Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (RED-S). "RED-S is a syndrome that affects health and performance and is caused by a mismatch between the calories eaten and burned during exercise. It can lead to many short- and long-term health and performance issues. "In short, the IFSC REDs Policy will require:

"Athletes to fill out two short questionnaires aimed at accumulating personal parameters for such criteria as height, weight, heart rate and blood pressure;

National Federations are to issue each athlete a health certificate or request more testing before providing “clearance” to the IFSC;

IFSC will initiate random and focussed testing of the following parameters (including BMI, heart rate, and blood pressure) throughout the competition season. The IFSC will also store the information provided by the National Federations;

An External Commission will review the data of suspected cases, comparing collected data with that of the National Federation health certificates."


IFSC President Marco Scolaris comments. “The new system underscores our commitment to the health of our athletes. The policy will not only help us determine which athletes are most at risk, it will also help raise awareness of the issue, provide help to those who need it, and ensure the rights of each athlete are protected.

The National Federations are key to the success of the new policy, as the health and welfare of the athletes fall under their jurisdiction at the national level. We look forward to collaborating with them closely on this matter.”


As an example, here are the scores and measurements that give an idea of who will be allowed to compete or if further testing is required

(ii. BMI: Males 18 years old and older < 18.5; Males 15 – 17 years old: < 18
Females 18 years old and older < 18, Females 15 – 17 years old: < 17.5
iii. Heart Rate: 18 years and older <40bpm; under 18 years old < 50bpm
iv. Blood Pressure: < 90/60 mm Hg)

Here are some examples of BMI:
(Body Mass Index (BMI) is a person's weight in kilograms divided by the square of height in meters.)
61 kg / (180 cm * 180 cm) = 18.8
54 kg / (170 cm * 170 cm) = 18.7
46 kg / (160 cm * 160 cm) = 18.0
40 kg / (150 cm * 150 cm) = 17.8
4 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Jakob Schubert's B.I.G. goes at 9c

Jakob Schubert reports on Instagram that B.I.G. aka Project Big in Flatanger, goes at 9c. The Austrian made the FA, of the Adam Ondra bolted route, last week du…

Favorites
Will Bosi claims the first repeat of Burden of Dreams (9A)

William Bosi has done the coveted second ascent of Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams (9A) in Lappnor, Finland, confirming the 9A grade. It was put up as the …

Katie Lamb makes history

Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…

"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …