13 March 2017
IFSC - Boulder format/calculation to be improved
During the IFSC press conference, the President Marco Scolaris said that it is hard to understand the scoring in bouldering but they are working on a solution that will be presented in some months. The athlete representative, Sean McColl said that the scoring with points is a possibility and it was also said that the USA method is interesting.
In reality, the four IFSC representatives almost seemed ashamed in regards the scoring system and that it was ten years old. 8a has several times suggested format as well as scoring system in regards points instead of Tops and Bonuses.
The changes with 6 minutes instead of 8 minutes in Lead finals, as well as 4 minutes instead of 4+ minutes in bouldering finals, were made to fit into TV.
Scolaris: "At the moment, this is the solution we were able to produce under pressure. We know many people were not satisfied, not happy."
"We expect to convince IOC, but not only, that hopefully before 2020 that we deserve some help, because the sport is growing to fast and we do not have the resources to manage the sport. If it goes on in this way and our income does not increase and therefore we are not able to hire additional human resources. We will become victim of our success."
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ



