IFSC 2017 analysis by Neumann and Fischhuber

Ben Lepesant has written a long very interesting article published at Innsbruck 2018 IFSC World Championships in regards the competition scene where he has gotten some sharp quotes from Udo Neumann and Kilian Fischhuber. © H. Wilhelm / Innsbruck 2018 "Neumann sees great potential in Chon Jongwon for lead climbing: "If he takes it seriously, no one can beat him. He has the strength-to-weight ratio and the finger strength of Gelmanov, the same ability to move as the others from the new generation, and a unique climbing flow. I think that even Adam [Ondra] would have trouble keeping up with him, due to his poorer strength-to-weight ratio. As I said, Tomoa can visualise really well, and this surely helps him in lead too. His style is riskier though." Talking about Ashima Shiraishi, Neumann says that the new style of route setting does not suit her and Fischhuber agrees. "Her progress curve was steep initially, but recently it has flattened out." What makes it harder for her, says Fischhuber, is that she is not part of a strong training group like, for example, the young Japanese climbers around National Bouldering Champion Futaba Ito (15), who will compete in World Cups next year. Neumann generally criticises that many young climbers "train too much too early", which in his opinion "makes it harder to progress later on."