25 January 2020

Eagle-4 9b by Hugo Parmentier

Fanatic Climbing reports that hugo parmentier has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's Eagle-4 9b in St-Lรฉger du Ventoux. The 20-year-old, who has eight podiums in IFSC youth comps, has tried it regurarly the last six months. "THE battle came to an end. 5trips 23days on 5month. Incredible sequence on mini tufas. 2 hard boulder problems in a row making it spicy with the pump. Long and risky finish with only two hard jump moves. Not the line you're looking at first but finally the traverse line is mega. Thanks Elie" Fanatic Climbing has the full length interview where he among other things says; "I would say itโ€™s 2 boulder sections with 2 goods holds between for clipping the draw and for taking a breathe. Itโ€™s more or less an 8B boulder into an 8A+. The route is very resistant. Around 18 moves for the hands and an extreme footwork too." (c) Aurรจle Brรฉmond
2 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Related
hugo parmentier who was #2 in the Youth World Champions last year has done his first 8c, Bรฉbรฉretcho in La Verriere and it was done on his second go. The last few days, the 15 year old also did two 8b's and one 8b+. Not bad for having 8a+ as a personal best before.
Le Cadafist 9a by Hugo Parmentier
hugo parmentier has had his, "Most unbelievable and crazy ascent ever. Super pumped, super long, fucking epic 3days," while doing Le Cadafist 9a in St Lรฉger. Duโ€ฆ
La moustache qui fรขche 9a+ by Hugo Parmentier
hugo parmentier, who was #43 in the last Lead WC, has done his first 9a+, La moustache qui fรขche in Entraygues. (c) Jan Novak "I have spent 6 days on it and 15โ€ฆ