28 October 2021

Hubble 9a (8c+) by Toby Roberts (16)

Toby Roberts, who two weeks ago did the 35m long Batman 9a/+, reports on Insta that he has done Ben Moon's classic Hubble from 1990 at Raven Tor. The Ben Moon route was originally given 8c+ and it is a short 6 move 8B+ boulder problem into a steady 7c route. In 2012, UKC wrote an article speculating it to be 9a, although non of the first repeaters suggested this. Later all repeaters have given it 9a although a kneebar bar has been found and Mathew Wright actually has said, "Basically, if youโ€™re short and can get the left kneebar in, it is probably 8c+ but I canโ€™t say for certain."

Amazing shift from endurance to power. How was that possible so quickly and what about that kneebar possibility?
I had been keeping my power topped up whilst doing the longer routes previously with some power sessions so itโ€™s nice to see it worked. I knew the kneebar was a possibility but I wanted to do it the way it was first done by Ben Moon. It was just a personal choice not to use it. I think the grade is definitely 9a, Iโ€™ve not done it with a knee pad but people have said that itโ€™s not much easier with one. I would need to go and try it with one to give an opinion though. A few people have done it with the kneebar, but using the right knee. I think Matthew was saying if you can fit your left knee in it would be easier than using the right kneebar but thereโ€™s not much space for the left one to go in.
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