6 November 2020

How to open up new bolted quality and safe routes?

I have bolted some 500 routes mainly on granite and gneiss on the Swedish west coast. Many climbers have been introduced to bolting and all of them are amazed by how many factors are involved an all the details you have to think about before and during bolting, in order to do a good job. Over the years I have seen many bolting mistakes which in general I think happens because some just rappel down and start drilling. Another common mistake is if you bolt based on your height and strength, no matter of the grade. This can often create dangerous routes.

In general, I think you should ask yourself some questions before starting to drill:
Will it be a frequented crag and route? Does it add long term value to the local scene? Does it reduce the value of nearby routes or boulders? What do the landowner and the municipality say? Is it ok with the neighbours? Is it ok based on the local club and the local community trad ethical bolting regulations? What about birds and other natural or historical values?

Once you have found out that there is no hinder to start bolting you should try the route on top rope confirming the quality, finding the best line and start looking for bolt placement. Use the hammer to find the best bolt placement especially in the start. Sometimes there are limited possibilities where the second bolt can be placed meaning the first and third bolts need to be placed accordingly.

If it is bad landing, place the first bolt lower than if there is green grass below.
If the start is relatively hard, place the first bolt lower in comparison if it is an easy start.
If there is not a straight line, try to put also the first bolts towards the side of the upper part in order to reduce the rope drag.
If it is a 6a route, put more bolts in compared to an equal long 8a route.

Make sure you can climb the route as safe as possible so injuries can be avoided, with good belaying, even if you fall during a clip. The best clipping position on a 6a route should be reachable even if you are 160 cm. For an 8a then 170 cm height could be the guideline. All routes do not have to be bolted. Sometimes on a more vertical wall, you could just place an anchor in between to bolted lines, if that could open up yet a new line. Note that the specific bolting job including how close to edges and what type of hardware you should use etc will be presented later.
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