
4 August 2016
How to make the 20 + 20 Olympic 2020 selection!?
In the IFSC application for the Tokyo 2020 Olympic, it has been suggested that 20 male and 20 female will compete for one set of medals based on their combined result in Lead, Boulder and Speed. IFSC have said they will explain how the criteria will be done in 2017 and here are some speculations. (c) Luka Fonda
Basically, the selection must be made in a similar format as how the format will be carried out in Tokyo, meaning that the Olympic qualifications must be done over few days in all three disciplines. Consequently, it will be almost impossible to use the World Cup results as basis for the selection, as such events will be super hard to organize.
This means that most probably, the Olympic qualifications will be carried out during the World Championships and also Continental Championships as IFSC and IOC want athletes from around the globe.
2019
Top-5 in the European Championship
Top-2 in the American Championship
Top-3 in the Asian Championship
Top-1 in the African Championship
Top-1 in the Pacific Championship
2020
Top-8 in the World Championship + 9th etc once Continental qualified also qualifies in the Worlds.
One dilemma with such criteria is of course that most probably, no speed climber will qualify. So IFSC might decide that all the three world champions will also qualify. If so, it will be a rather odd Speed event in the Olympics as there will be one guy about 50% faster than the rest of the group. Imagine that the only climber who continuously does all three disciplines, Sean McColl, is almost among the very last in Speed World Cups.
Another delicate matter IFSC has to deal with is that during the Olympics there will probably be no semifinal as there are only 20 participants. At the same time, during the qualifications you need to have a semifinal as there will probably be at least 100 athletes competing in the World Championships.
And as a final twist, the 2020 World Championship might be a good opportunity to focus only on Bouldering as one could assume that Bouldering experts going for the Olympics endurance format will not perform at their top level. In practice, most likely, the Olympic participants will be Lead climbers.
There are many considerations to be taken into account, not mentioning that all IFSC decisions will have to be copied into the Youth and National Championships. Basically, the climbing competition sport as we know it will be changed for ever.
Jorg Verhoeven, who previously and for many years was the athlete IFSC representative, comments on Facebook, "Fingers crossed we won't make a wrong turn from here on and let's hope the event will be representing the sport like it is, without changing it to be 'fit' for the Olympics...
A little bit of change is not necessarily a bad thing, but a badly tested new format no climber agrees on is what I'm afraid of. Less worries about doping. Yet..."
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