27 May 2018
How to make local Lead comps more fun
It is quite obvious that Bouldering is way ahead when it comes to interest from the climbers, media, organizers and the participants. This goes from the World Cups to the local gym comps. Basically a Lead comp takes longer time to prepare and run, have much fewer exciting moments for the spectators and put more pressure on the participants although they climb very little.
Climbers want to climb and the organizers want to simplify it. What if we copy the boulderer competition concept and skip judges /and belayers) in qualifications and let the climbers run it and add the routes in Apps. You score your Top-5 routes based on 8a scoring points and all the routes in the gym are available to try. An 8a = 1 000 points and a 7a onsight = 845 points etc.
To spicy it up, at least in the small gyms, you could also score by measuring the number of clips done. Nine clips on a 7a redpoint means 0.9 * 700 = 630 points. For the final, there can be new onsight routes as normal.
It should be mentioned that the format has been tested out successfully in a Swedish Cup and in the near future, there will be both holds and also quick draws available on the market, which could mark the results automatically.
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