Hélix au pays des merveilles 8c+ by Pierre Delas (40)

Pierre Délas, editor in chief of Fanatic Climbing, has done his first-ever 8c+, Hélix au pays des merveilles in Pic St Loup. (c) Pierre Trolliet

"I wanted to climb this line since the first time I came to this beautiful cave seven years ago. Some good friends like Nina Caprez and Maxime Clerc convinced me to put the route on my to-do and that could be doable. I started the process one year ago, with 15 sessions last July. I could do good links but after 6 weeks of lockdown, my shape was not the best. I did another 15 sessions this spring but the weather was not the best. A lot of rain...but anyhow I fell 5 times at the end of the top resistance section. I started to get close. I returned here in July and could finally finish the line after 8 more falls in the top section and 15 more sessions."

How can you explain doing a grade PB being 40 having climbed for like 30 years?
When I was young I didn't put my self big projects. I tried to redpoint the routes in few sessions to climb the most 8th-grade routes I can (more than 500 now). It's my friend Lucien Martinez who gave me the motivation to try hard lines at my limits. I have a lot of experience now after 30 years climbing and I decided it was a good moment before being too old; -)

Have you train in any different way the last year?
Due to lockdown and restrictions, I couldn't climb indoors. I did a lot of bouldering in Font where I choose some 7B-7C physical lines, to do as training this winter. For 5 years I have struggled with back problems but last December, after making an analysis I started to work with a very good physio. Until June, I did 20 sessions with him and he gave me exercises of yoga, body tension and mobility. Later also some bodybuilding exercises. Now my back is better and I could climb without big problems. Some times some pain but with exercises and the complex pain is reduced.