Hannes van Duysen does Es Pontas (9a+) and flashes an 8c

Hannes Van Duysen, who was #14 in the Olympics, has flashed Poseidon's Kiss (8c) and sent Es Pontas (9a+) in Mallorca. His first ever DWS experience was trying the Chris Sharma classical line from 2006 and the 20-year-old sent it in just four sessions. (c) Yulen Calleja Ordiz

Can you tell us more about Es Pontas?
The big dyno was challenging but mentally the heal hook crux at the top was much harder as it is my antistyle. I actually tried to go for a harder physical solution but in the end, it was frustrating. Then Yulen advised on how to place the heel hook better and it was game on again.

The day of the send started with four tries not making the dyno and then I took a 1.5 h break and sent it, including making mistakes and being nervous at the top. What a great feeling topping out and remembering seeing the video of Sharma doing it like ten years ago.

What was your DWS personal best before Es Pontas?
I flashed the classical Loskot and two smoking barrels (8a+) and later I flashed Possidon’s kiss. I actually did not wear a chalk bag as I was so sure of falling. The first holds were wet due to high waves so I lost all my chalk and it became very hard but I could still send it with a good fight.

What are your plans for the winter and the next year?
First of all, I will start the winter training for next season. I am planning to start projecting Alphane. This is a boulder that makes me really psyched, I'm not sure if it will be this winter already but for sure in the near future. Then in 2025, I want to go back to Ratstaman Vibrations (9b). I tried it for the first time this summer and it is really one of the best things I tried, so if I have the possibility to go back there, I will go.

I will continue competing but I will make sure I will touch more rock. The Olympic experience was nice but hard and two years before Paris and especially the year before I climbed a bit less on rock.