Hallucination 8C+ by Kazuma Ise (19)
21 December 2021

How much and How did you train for your project?
I only trained twice a week for five hours each. On my non-training days I work part-time, go to school and hang out with girlfriend. I did't train for anything other than the project. There was a possibility of getting a severe injury, so I decided that training twice a week was appropriate.
How do you train during the five-hour session?Warming up can be done in 15 minutes. Afterwards, crimp training, one finger training and weighted crimp pull-ups for two hours. The last two hours are free session time.
What are your next plan? Floatin 8C+ in Mt.Mizugaki and Epitaph (after the break) in Horai, probably also 8C+. These are my goals for 2022 and also to send 9A. Maybe Finland's BOD or a new 9A.
FAVOURITES
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MOST COMMENTED
17 May 2022
Lomba's 9b knee pad technique and leg strength story
In the Eder Lomba video of Rainman 9b, we can see that he stays in a kneebar from 3:50 - 7:10, and short parts of it, "no hands rest". Steve McClure did the FA …
16 May 2022
Eder Lomba does Rainman 9b
Steve McClure put up Rainman 9b at Malham in 2017 after projecting it for 128 days. It is considered the hardest route in Britain and now Eder Lomba has done the first repeat. It is a link-up that goes through the crux of Rainshadow 9a and then into Batman 9a before finishing up Bat Route 8c. Intere…
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FAVORITES
19 May 2022
Seb Bouin and his (9c) grading
Sebastien Bouin has done some 60 routes 9a and harder out of which 25 are FAs, including DNA 9c in Verdon which he did last month. Interestingly none of these F…
16 May 2022
Eder Lomba does Rainman 9b
Steve McClure put up Rainman 9b at Malham in 2017 after projecting it for 128 days. It is considered the hardest route in Britain and now Eder Lomba has done the first repeat. It is a link-up that goes through the crux of Rainshadow 9a and then into Batman 9a before finishing up Bat Route 8c. Intere…
17 May 2022
Lomba's 9b knee pad technique and leg strength story
In the Eder Lomba video of Rainman 9b, we can see that he stays in a kneebar from 3:50 - 7:10, and short parts of it, "no hands rest". Steve McClure did the FA …