15 February 2016

Gui-Gui's 8C+ repeated by Webb and a direct version by barefoot Mowgli

Neil Hart comes with most extraordinary Boulder news: both James Webb and Charles "Mowgli" Albert have repeated Guillaume Glairon-Mondet's Le pied ร  coulisse 8C+ in Fontainebleau. Mowgli did it barefoot saying he did a direct version, "It's easier than the original method, but maybe only possible without climbing shoes". You have to wrap your toe around a small spike in a pocket which is not possible with shoes and thus eliminate six moves! Both guys credit Gui-Gui's vision. James think it is more 8C and Charles says his version is 8B+. (c) Clement Perotti/Sandstone media Scorecard comment from James, "First of all major props to Gui Gui for having the vision to create this line! Its a very nice problem hosting both technical and powerful movement. Regarding the grade I personally feel 8C is more appropriate though it is definitely one of the hardest in the forest. Today Charles and I climbed it using VERY different methods. Charles created a direct sequence that eliminates around 6 moves off Gui's line and honestly might only be doable if you're barefoot. For me I decided to repeat Gui's line because I wanted to climb what he thought could be that next level. Nonetheless I'm keen to have it done and really psyched to move forward on other projects! 2nd ascent. 3 days"
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