Growth plate fractures at risk for the advanced kids

Over the years, doctor and coaches have warned for an increased number of growth plate fractures and 8a has often informed about the problem. Here is a Eric Hörst article from 2017 and here is one by Volker and Isabelle Schöffl from this spring. Sadly and very unfortunate we have just lately heard many more stories preventing some advanced kids to stop climbing. The fracture often appears during the year of the highest growth velocity for the youngsters focusing to much on power in the gym. It seems most coaches are aware of the problem but this seems not to be the case for the parents and kids. Two coaches have recently reached out to 8a asking us to write another warning article as they see an increase risk for more fractures that actually could mean the kids are forced to totally stop climbing. Campus board and repeativey working on the same bouldering moves are the worst thing. In fact, all type of intensive finger training should be avoided during the year when the youngster grow the most. Remember that Adam Ondra being a teenager his focus was onsight, technic and endurance.