Greenspit 8b (+) trad by Barbara Zangerl

Friday, 16 October

Barbara Zangerl, the best female multi-discipline rock climber for many years, reports on Insta that she has done Greenspit 8b (+) trad in Valle dell'Orco. It was put up in 2005 by Didier Berthod as an 8b+ meaning it was the hardest crack in Europe and possibly in the world but later also 8b have been suggested. Originally it had green bolts but they were chopped off. In 2006, it appeared in the film First Ascent and the 12-meter roof crack became an icon route. (c) Jacopo Larcher

" Greenspit was always a line I wanted to try one day. It took me 4 days (13 turns) from Handjam-fingerlock-crimps, feet first—you find it all on this one! It was fun to work on that climb and find out the beta to fight it to the top. Placing all the gear on lead and removing it after every single try adds some extra work/struggle to it. Really enjoyed to spend time with Jacopo at this very cool place and sharing the motivation."

It should be mentioned that trad grades have over the years developed stiffer than sport grades and including that you have to place all gear on lead, as the ethics also said for sport routes originally, an 8b trad most be considered as an 8b+ sport route today. "Feels definitely harder than any 8b I did... it definitely makes a difference placing the gear on lead..."Furthermore, beside Barbara being the best all-round female rock climber in the world, she should be Top-10 among the male. She has done 9a and onsighted 8b. In bouldering she did an 8B in 2008 but due to a back injury she then had to stop. In trad she has done up to 8c and her overall tick list in big walls are possibly only beaten by Tommy Caldwell.

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