22 June 2020
Great 8c pre-clipping ethics by Oriane Bertone (15)
Oriane Bertone has done Panonoramix 8c in St Lรฉger and added some interesting comments. "The first section is quite dangerous, and I did it with the rope in the first two quickdraws. In this case, I think it's a soft 8c. If you pre-clip the third and fourth quickdraws you are safe but it's a bit easier energetically. In this case, I think the grade could be hard 8b+."
Oriane's comments go in line with the 8a 8a Practice and Ethics which says, "Two or three pre-clipped carabiners if it is for safety." In practice almost all the ascents with a hard start are done with pre-clipped quickdraws which is good as many injuries have been avoided. One ethical dilemma is when different climbers use a different number of pre-clipped carabiners as this could mean that the difficulty of the route changes, as Oriane points out. At the same time, it is impossible to set a fixed standard as there are so many possible scenarios with "Yellow card - Ethical Dilemma".
From a safety point of view, possibly a bolt should be added in order to avoid potential ground fall because of a hard third or fourth clip. In any case, great to see the ethical comments by the 15-year-old.
Oriane's comments go in line with the 8a 8a Practice and Ethics which says, "Two or three pre-clipped carabiners if it is for safety." In practice almost all the ascents with a hard start are done with pre-clipped quickdraws which is good as many injuries have been avoided. One ethical dilemma is when different climbers use a different number of pre-clipped carabiners as this could mean that the difficulty of the route changes, as Oriane points out. At the same time, it is impossible to set a fixed standard as there are so many possible scenarios with "Yellow card - Ethical Dilemma".
From a safety point of view, possibly a bolt should be added in order to avoid potential ground fall because of a hard third or fourth clip. In any case, great to see the ethical comments by the 15-year-old.
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