Grades should be based on climbers suited for the route

Let us say that a 180 cm tall climber thinks a route with a dyno crux is 8a, while the 170 cm tall guy says it is 8b and the 160 cm tall guy grades it 8c. If grades were based on the average consensus, this route should be graded 8b but this is clearly not correct. Instead, grades should be based on the climbers that are suited for the climb when it comes to height and style.

One dilemma here is of course that if, based on another example, the 185 cm tall FA climber and the equally tall first repeater agree on 8a, while shorter, often female and kids, start repeating it and quickly make PB's, the climb is most likely best suited for shorter climbers with thinner fingers. Such routes should be downgraded as there is otherwise a grade mismatch for climbers best suited for the route.

The dilemma for the FA's, is that their grade suggestion should also include how they think the repeaters will perceive the difficulty. If the FA is 165 cm and the crux is a dyno that most probably will be easier for the taller climbers, it is best to opt for a lower grade.