
26 May 2015
Grade and Training follow up after Dai's last 8C (+)
Dai Koyamada, one of the leading boulderers the last ten years, just recently send another mega project, Horizon 8C (+). Here he was so kind to share the process and detailed grading thoughts, although he does not like it. (c) Ikuko Serata
"I simply want to focus on climbing, not bothered with the grading. If I were not a professional climber, I would be climbing like that for sure."
Why did you only give V15+, 8C (+) for Horizon as you thought it was your hardest ever and as you already suggested 8C+ for two FA's?
No, I havenยt sent 8C+. Or to be more exact, I havenยt done the problems which other climbers made FA. If there were some problems of exact 8C+ and I would have sent them, I could say it 8C+ or higher after comparing with these problems.
However, I donยt have enough experience to compare with, so I canยt offer 8C+ for ยHorizonย. I have sent some 8C, so I think I know what 8C is. But as I mentioned in my blog, it is far less than fifty, so I still have some doubt of my sense of grade to 8C. I think that the grade of Horizon will be fixed after other climbers ascend.
Could you please give some training details in regards; How much? Which type? How is it planned etc?
I usually train four or five times a week at my gym, working on projects. I set some problems by myself and climb them like circuit. At the same time, setting tougher problems which take some days to ascend. Actually, Iยve just completed a hard problem recently which I set two years ago.
Also I do basic trainings and stretching using rings, campusing, monkey bars, TRX with my trainer. I focus more on stretching during the outdoor climbing season while focusing on heavy training on off season. I integrate various type of training not to make me bored.
I donยt have any trainers for climbing itself and I compose all the programs by myself. I also make my own campus boards and finger boards. I become motivated much more using my own. I also focus on massaging as Iยm not young any more. I have a personal masseur and ask him to come to my gym to apply massages to me once a week. And I do self-applied massages every day using stretch pole, balls and some other tools.
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