
6 July 2020
Giuliano Cameroni comments his latest 8C FA
Giuliano Cameroni, who previously has done 16 boulders 8C and harder, out of which five FA, comments his latest, Power of Now 8C.
"So psyched to have done this one, for sure one of the coolest boulders Iโve ever seen! Starts with a World Cup dihedral straight into a perfect dyno to a good hold, then a few set up moves on sculpted grips lead into the crux, a huge dynamic yet technical move to the lip. The wall is around 60 degrees, so although the holds are good they are so far apart that it didnโt feel possible to stick the lip while cutting the feet. Having good sensations and enough tension on the right foot in order to stick the move became pretty mental. Getting there itโs pretty hard already and the last move needs to be executed with the right flow.
The key was to focus on the moment. So many times on dynamic moves itโs easy to start thinking. When you are free of thoughts and fear of messing up, you just focus on the now, which is an extra element that helps your way up to your climb. Being in the present moment is not only necessary in climbing but it helps life in general. It gives joy and takes away weird pressures from the egoistic mind. Meditation takes away negative ideas and helps to be in comfort with your whole body and respect nature and other people.
"So psyched to have done this one, for sure one of the coolest boulders Iโve ever seen! Starts with a World Cup dihedral straight into a perfect dyno to a good hold, then a few set up moves on sculpted grips lead into the crux, a huge dynamic yet technical move to the lip. The wall is around 60 degrees, so although the holds are good they are so far apart that it didnโt feel possible to stick the lip while cutting the feet. Having good sensations and enough tension on the right foot in order to stick the move became pretty mental. Getting there itโs pretty hard already and the last move needs to be executed with the right flow.
The key was to focus on the moment. So many times on dynamic moves itโs easy to start thinking. When you are free of thoughts and fear of messing up, you just focus on the now, which is an extra element that helps your way up to your climb. Being in the present moment is not only necessary in climbing but it helps life in general. It gives joy and takes away weird pressures from the egoistic mind. Meditation takes away negative ideas and helps to be in comfort with your whole body and respect nature and other people.
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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