
18 October 2021
Geminis 8b+ and Gladiator 8b onsights by Vita Lukan
Vita Lukan, who was Top-6 in all her five Lead WCs in 2021, has onsighted her first 8b+, Geminis in Rodellar. It is one of the most classic routes, originally graded 8c, in the area and this was the second onsight out of the 183 ascents in the 8a database. Previous, only a handful females, have onsighted 8b+ before and Charlotte Durif is the only one to have onsighted 8c. The next day the 20-year-old also onsighted Gladiator 8b. (c) Nace Gosnik
"This was actually my first time rock climbing this year๐ . Since the first time I saw this line my goal was to onsight it therefore I was a little bit nervous before my try. I knew it's gonna be hard because I am not the most familiar with climbing with kneebars and I haven't climbed much outside this year due to competitions. But when I was up on the wall a felt pretty good and suddenly I realized that it is possible. This is when I got a bit nervous and my feet started shaking. Last few meters I had to fight really hard with the pump and even clipping quickdraws felt quite hard. Honestly, I felt quite relieved when I clipped the anchor of this beautiful route. I think I was climbing for around 20 or 25 min."
What are your winter plans and what about the next comp season?
I will take two weeks rest right after I come from Spain and then I will start with my preparations for next season :) for next season I would like to improve my bouldering skills. In Lead, I would love to repeat or even beat my results from last year
"This was actually my first time rock climbing this year๐ . Since the first time I saw this line my goal was to onsight it therefore I was a little bit nervous before my try. I knew it's gonna be hard because I am not the most familiar with climbing with kneebars and I haven't climbed much outside this year due to competitions. But when I was up on the wall a felt pretty good and suddenly I realized that it is possible. This is when I got a bit nervous and my feet started shaking. Last few meters I had to fight really hard with the pump and even clipping quickdraws felt quite hard. Honestly, I felt quite relieved when I clipped the anchor of this beautiful route. I think I was climbing for around 20 or 25 min."
What are your winter plans and what about the next comp season?
I will take two weeks rest right after I come from Spain and then I will start with my preparations for next season :) for next season I would like to improve my bouldering skills. In Lead, I would love to repeat or even beat my results from last year
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
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22 October 2021
Vita Lukan continues her rampage in Rodellar
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6 October 2021
El hijo libre 8c by Ida Kupล
Ida Kupล has done two 8c's in Rodellar; El hijo libre: "Hardest of 8c I've done, but worth the effort. One of the best moves I've ever done, perfect technical rโฆ
24 May 2021
Las meninas 9a (+) by Gonzalo Larrocha
Gonzalo Larrocha has done Las Meninas 9a (+) in Rodellar. The 36-year-old bolted it one year ago and Jorge Diaz-Rullo did the FA. "It is a very steep route withโฆ
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22 October 2021
Vita Lukan continues her rampage in Rodellar
Vita Lukan has during a two weeks trip to Rodellar done 17 routes 8a and harder out of which eleven onsight or flash. Her hardest were Cascavel 8c/+, Welcome toโฆ
6 October 2021
El hijo libre 8c by Ida Kupล
Ida Kupล has done two 8c's in Rodellar; El hijo libre: "Hardest of 8c I've done, but worth the effort. One of the best moves I've ever done, perfect technical rโฆ
24 May 2021
Las meninas 9a (+) by Gonzalo Larrocha
Gonzalo Larrocha has done Las Meninas 9a (+) in Rodellar. The 36-year-old bolted it one year ago and Jorge Diaz-Rullo did the FA. "It is a very steep route withโฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
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26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
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