17 October 2021
Gejo's suggestion how to reduce eating disorders
Stasa Gejo has just come forward describing her previous eating disorder problems. She has also recently entered the IFSC athlete commission. So we asked her if she had any quick thoughts on what IFSC could do that possibly could create a discussion. Here is the Austrian regulation which Stasa refers to below.
"In order to reduce the number of BMI-critical cases and to avoid any further public discussions on this topic, I believe there are two things that could be implemented by the IFSC.
The first one would be mandatory education (included in youth categories too), which could be conducted internationally or nationally. Such education should cover the basics of athletic nutritional needs, the proper nutrition for climbing and the consequences and outcomes of disordered eating.
The second one is to define rules precisely, adding strict consequences (i.e immediate ban) for those under the defined BMI limits. It would be preferable to use a combination of fat percentage and BMI, rather than just BMI, measured by advanced scales with an 'athletic mode' (as the regular fat measurement scales fail to measure precisely the athletes' composition). An example of such rules is in the rulebook of the Austrian federation, with an immediate ban for measurements below the values in the first column. The ones in between the two columns need to have a medical checkup before registering for an international competition. The federation can order a BMI check at any time and such athletes are more likely to be controlled multiple times throughout the season."
"In order to reduce the number of BMI-critical cases and to avoid any further public discussions on this topic, I believe there are two things that could be implemented by the IFSC.
The first one would be mandatory education (included in youth categories too), which could be conducted internationally or nationally. Such education should cover the basics of athletic nutritional needs, the proper nutrition for climbing and the consequences and outcomes of disordered eating.
The second one is to define rules precisely, adding strict consequences (i.e immediate ban) for those under the defined BMI limits. It would be preferable to use a combination of fat percentage and BMI, rather than just BMI, measured by advanced scales with an 'athletic mode' (as the regular fat measurement scales fail to measure precisely the athletes' composition). An example of such rules is in the rulebook of the Austrian federation, with an immediate ban for measurements below the values in the first column. The ones in between the two columns need to have a medical checkup before registering for an international competition. The federation can order a BMI check at any time and such athletes are more likely to be controlled multiple times throughout the season."
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Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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