Garnbret is out due to new strange clipping rule

Janja Garnbret was given 42 and was ranked #9, below Molly Thompson-Smith who got 42+. Molly reached hold 42 but found out it was impossible to clip and the reversed to 41 but as she could not clip she moved to 42 again where she tried to go upwards. The rule is very clear, saying you can only be rewarded a hold from where you can clip. This means Molly could have been given 41 and ended #11. In theory, one could argument that it could be possible to clip from hold 42. In any case, it would be totally impossible to clip from hold 43 meaning she could not be given 42+. Video of Molly's last moves. It has been confirmed that the Slovenians made an appeal but obviously the judges said their interpreting of the new 2019 rule is that it is OK to get 42+ even if 42 is as far your are allowed to clip. It should also be mentioned that the route setters did say it was possible from hold 42. "(a) where a Safety Hold has been marked (the “Blue Cross”), scoring is “stopped” at the marked hold until the relevant protection point has been clipped. (b) in all other circumstances, scoring stops when a climber has let go with both hands of the last hold from which it was possible to clip the last unclipped Protection Point." In practice this means that if Molly had gotten 43 she could actually have started moving with the left hand and gotten 43+ as long as the other hand remains at hold 42. It should be mentioned that before the article was published two experienced coaches as well as one judge said that they had not interpreted the new rule as it was used. Once all athletes understand this, there just might be safety problems as you can push much further without clipping than how it was in 2018.