Garnbret and Anraku first after Boulder in B+L Semis

The Boulder and Lead semifinals started with the boulder stages and once again we saw good route setting in Bern. This meant good score separation for the new system where you get 5 points for the Low zone, 10 points for the High Zone and 25 points for the Top. For each try, 0.1 points were deducted. The women's Top-3 were identical to the podium in Boulder on the weekend.

Later tonight (at 20:30 CEST), the men and the women will do a Lead route where you get 100 points topping out and then 4 points are deducted for the last 10 holds, 3 points for the next 10 holds, 2 points for the next 10 holds and 1 point for the next 10 holds. The routes have approximately 50 holds in Bern, so no points are awarded for the first ca. 10 holds. The Top-8 advance to the Boulder and Lead final and not even Garnbret has secured a place in the final if she falls low. In Morioka last year, 112 and 100 points were needed in the Men and Women respectively to advance, after a similarly difficult Men's semi Boulder stage, and an easier Women's semi Boulder stage than in Bern.

1. Janja Garnbret (SLO) 98.9
2. Oriane Bertone (FRA) 79.4
3. Brooke Raboutou (FRA) 54.1
4. Miho Nonaka (JPN) 53.9
5. Anastasia Sanders (USA) 53.5
6. Ai Mori (JPN) 44.9
7. Jessica Pilz (AUT) 44.4
8. Oceania Mackenzie (AUS) 34.9
Complete results

1. Sorato Anraku (JPN) 84.9
2. Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) 84.1
3. Paul Jenft FRA (84.3)
4. Mejdi Schalck (FRA) 83.9
5. Meichi Narasaki (JPN) 69.8
6. Dohyun Lee (KOR) 69.6
7. Sean Bailey (USA) 69.5
7. Mickael Mawem (FRA) 69.5
Complete results

Adam Ondra was #12 with 64.1 points after being the only one topping the first boulder but just doing three zones on the last two boulders. Alex Megos scored 49.8 points and Jakob Schubert 44.8 points, so they have to hope for a hard route where they climb very high up to advance to the final.

Among the female, Chaehyun Seo with 29.3 points and Jain Kim with 19.1 points are in a similar situation but on the other hand, they are just around 5 respectively 15 points below #8.

Overall, France and Japan continued their great results in the World Championships and Paul Jenft (FRA) comments to IFSC; “It was nice because I was really tired and the boulders were really long. It was hard to find power but I think I climbed pretty well and I’m happy to have reached three tops. The hardest part is done as the boulder is more powerful and I think if I climb well and make good decisions I can really high in the lead route.” (c) Lena Drapella/IFSC