Gakido 8C+ by Ryuichi Murai

Ryuichi Murai, who previously has done three 8C+ FAs, has made the second ascent of Shinichiro Nomura’s Gakido (8C+) in Chigobutai. Two weeks ago, he did one more second ascent of a Nomura FA, Loca (8C) in Shiobara. (c) Momoka Oda

"The other day, I succeeded in one of my main objectives for this season. This line is an old project completed by Nomsin in March of this year and consists of only 4 moves. Moreover, the actual difficulty is concentrated in the second move (aiming for the next hold while fully locking the body in an unstable state).

This day was the third day of trying, and the temperature was cooler than when I tried for two days the last year, so the conditions were perfect. Thanks to that, I was able to grab the pinch hold in a hard direction in a stable state, and I continued to make a lot of close tries. After several adjustments to the trajectory of the move, I finally succeeded in the second move and was able to send it. As for the grade, it's difficult to evaluate because it's very short, but I feel it's easier than the V16s I've climbed so far."

Could you say something about the potential low start?
The low-start project joins Gakido after four crimpy moves like 8B (V13). The most difficult part was reaching the start position of Gakido, and unfortunately, I couldn't do it on this day. Connecting from below will increase the difficulty of Gakido greatly.