Frankenjura - Info & Stats

Frankenjura is the classical area where redpoint was invented by Kurt Albert, where Wolfgang Güllich put up Action Directe, 9a in 1991 and which has most ascents (43 839) in the 8a data base. The whole area is 100 km, North to South 100 km and 60 km West to East. The first routes was established like 100 years ago and today it consists of 1 000+ cliffs and 10 000+ excluding bouldering. There are 38 routes between 8c+ and 9a+ out of which Markus Bock has put up most. The last year 300+ routes was put up. The typical Frankenjura route is steep and short with lots of pockets making them hard to onsight. The only down side, if we exclude the hard grades :), is that the easier older routes are badly protected. The meeting point for climbers is the bivouac site in Untertrubach, opposite of the Zehnerstein and most famous is the Oma Eichler campground. Sebastian Schwertner has published some Topos which can be bought at Panico.de and he has also helped out with the 8a data base. ig-klettern pays for rebolting and works hard with Access issues.