15 October 2019
Jack's broken heart 8A+ by Frances Bensley
Frances Bensley, who previously has done two 8B's, has done her first 8A+, Jack's broken heart in Magic Wood, after some seven days projecting. (c) Jon Partridge
"This was my third trip to Magic wood and this time I decided to set myself a goal to project Jack's Broken Heart. It is an amazing bloc and relatively close to my limit and I was hoping that I could get it done in the time that I had. The moves didn't take too long to work out, but as I started to give it some redpoint goes, I found that there were a few moves that I was struggling to make consistently. In the end, it became more of a mental challenge but I was super psyched to get it done on our last day of climbing."
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