22 September 2019

Founder Ascent & First Ascent = Sharing FAs

Closed projects have created a lot of controversy over the years. I have bolted some 500 routes but tend to stay in the middle out of the two extreme opinions. My idea has always been that anybody is allowed to climb my routes as long as my project name is kept. Once Yuji Hirayama showed up and wanted to climb a cool line my friend had bolted and was working on. We come up with the solution that Yuji could climb it as long as he symbolic grabbed the anchor while clipping it. Yuji thought that was great and actually found a better solution on his onsight and my friend did it soon after. In the topo of Gรถteborg, my name is all over the place but for some hard routes I did not do the first, two FA names are mentioned. This means both the name of the first ascent as well as the founder ascent are mentioned. I think this is a nice midways solution for the controversy of closed projects. We have to bear in mind that nobody can climb ownership of some piece of rock but on the other hand, it could be nice to show some respect to the guys investing money and time in order for the community to get some more climbing challenges. As long as we are talking routes of climbs not that hard, there should be no such thing as a closed project or a challenge for the first ascent. What is important is the founder ascent, i.e a new way of saying FA. I think we should respect red-tagging in the first hanger but this means that the Founder should actively work on it. However, anybody should be allowed to try it out. When it comes to boulders and trad routes, I think in general that they can not be closed if it does not relate to investing multiple of hours cleaning and building landing platforms etc.
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