First Ley 9a+ by Santiago de Alba

Santiago de Alba reports on Insta that he has done First Ley 9a+ in Margalef after projecting it during some 30 sessions over three months. The Mexican competed actively until 2014 and his best result was #17 in a Lead WC and #25 in Boulder. After five years of climbing break, he started climbing again in 2019. (c) Eduardo Ruano Lin

How did you end up projecting First Ley in Margalef?
I began bouldering seriously almost two years ago and after doing some of my projects I decided to go to Margalef to try First Round First Minute 9b. I wasn't very sure because I was travelling alone but I knew some people here. I did know that FR is really hard but I love that line, the moves, the holds, the place and the history with Chris Sharma. I wasn't sure about FR but I was almost sure I could have a chance with First Ley, the less difficult variation. I did all the important moves on my first try and decide to go until the end.

The last route I did was maybe an 8c+ in México two years back, but I've been bouldering and this route is very bouldery. I think other climbers also did it without doing 9a before. I knew I had a chance, but mainly I was very in love with that line. I didn’t even think about doing other routes. I wanted that one. The (grade) 9a+ was an extra value, that was sometimes heavy for the mind because there was no one in Mexico climbing that grade. Now there will be a lot.

During the three months, have you trained on plastic or only on the route?
No plastic, I have been training on the route to get some endurance, and with some hangboard. I haven't been in a gym for months but I love training. I train a lot and before in Mexico, I was just training sometimes

What is next?
First Round First Minute, the route intimidates me and is a bit out of reach, but I will give it hell. And maybe a check the stuff in La Capella. I want to improve my realtionship with climbing and keep learning.