4 April 2018

9a by Alberto Gines Lopez (15)

Alberto Gines Lopez, runner up in the last Youth World Championship, jumps from 8c to 9a by doing Vรญctimes del Futur in Margalef. (c) Mario Martinez Munoz "I spent the last week climbing in Margalef. My first intention was to try some hard routes and to make some on-sight ascents. I started in the Sector called Racรณ de la Finestra with the purpose of trying some routes, as I said, on-sight, but, finally, I changed my mind and decided to try some more demanding project because I was feeling fit. With the new Margalef guide by Vicent Palau, I chose Victimes del Futur (9a). From the beginning I started very motivated because I really had very good sensations. After the first attempt, I talked to Vicent and he explained to me that when the route was initially equipped by Jordi Pou it was set as 8c +. But it seems that some holds had been broken in the crux and after the last ascents (one of them by Alex Megos) they decided to change it to 9a. In the next two days I continued trying it. The sensations were still very good and finally, on the third day of trying, I sent it."
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