28 July 2019

Female Speed less important in Tokyo qually

As there are many more female Speed specialist, in comparison to the male, participating in Combined in the World Championship, the female Speed performance will have less importance in the qualification. The reason for this is the multiplication system. Miho Nonaka and Mickael Mawem will probably win among the Lead/Boulder specialist and they will probably be ranked around #8 respectively #3 in Combined. In theory, this could make the female Speed Combined winner qualifying to the Top-8 final if she is lucky in bouldering at the same time as the male winner will not have a chance. The ones benefiting the most for this are the relatively slower female Speed climbers like Chaehyon Seo and most of the Slovenians as well as the Americans. In practice, it also means that the recommendation for the female is not to focus to much on Speed training the last weeks if the primary goal is to qualify to the Olympics.
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