7 September 2023
Felipe Camargo opens the first 9a+ in Brazil
Felipe Camargo, who did El Bon Combat (9b) in 2019, has done the FA of Auto Retrato (9a+) in Serra do Cipรณ. Already this year, he has made the FA of two 9a's including Gran Reserva (9a) which was a ten-year-old project he did last month.
" After sending Gran Reserva I saw a possible harder start and bolted it. Auto Retrato changes the 8a+ intro to an 8b+/c intro, making it way harder so I give it 9a. It's a power endurance route! 50 moves with no good rest...finishing on a really cool 7C+! Really unique holds on the serra do cipรณ limestone. It took me some 30 sessions including also Gran Reserva."
Can you tell us more about the process?
The conditions never aligned, the season here was really bad this year and I had to try everything...first, I was climbing at midnight with a Makita Fan hanging on the rope! I fell off the very last move and had to go home for a few events ...when I came back, the rain came and it started to get really humid during the night...Today I finally switched my strategy, woke up at 5 a.m. started warming up at 6:20, and had two really bad tries where my body wasn't understanding why the hell I was climbing so early ๐๐ I finally sent the route on my third try of the day at 8:40AM!
" After sending Gran Reserva I saw a possible harder start and bolted it. Auto Retrato changes the 8a+ intro to an 8b+/c intro, making it way harder so I give it 9a. It's a power endurance route! 50 moves with no good rest...finishing on a really cool 7C+! Really unique holds on the serra do cipรณ limestone. It took me some 30 sessions including also Gran Reserva."
Can you tell us more about the process?
The conditions never aligned, the season here was really bad this year and I had to try everything...first, I was climbing at midnight with a Makita Fan hanging on the rope! I fell off the very last move and had to go home for a few events ...when I came back, the rain came and it started to get really humid during the night...Today I finally switched my strategy, woke up at 5 a.m. started warming up at 6:20, and had two really bad tries where my body wasn't understanding why the hell I was climbing so early ๐๐ I finally sent the route on my third try of the day at 8:40AM!
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