12 October 2020
FA's should not opt for a personal grade but a community grade
If a boulder is much easier if you are 175 cm tall, then a 165 cm tall guy doing the FA needs to consider this once suggesting the FA grade. It could be the same if a guy with fat fingers can't squeeze in two fingers in a pocket, meaning he has to use just one finger or go for another beta. If it then feels like 8A he might opt for 7C+ or lower. If you are not using climbing shoes it might be hard to understand if it is easier with shoes so no blame on Charles Albert and his 9A proposal on No Kpote only but he has to be careful in the future suggesting 9A's.
Grades are based on the best possible sequence and also for the perfect size of that climb. A dyno where it is (almost) impossible for climbers below 185 cm should not be graded 9A based on how it feels for the 170 cm climbers. That dyno grade should be based on how it feels for the 185 cm guys, which might be 8A.
Grades are based on the best possible sequence and also for the perfect size of that climb. A dyno where it is (almost) impossible for climbers below 185 cm should not be graded 9A based on how it feels for the 170 cm climbers. That dyno grade should be based on how it feels for the 185 cm guys, which might be 8A.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


