Family focus for Ondra

Adam Ondra took a break from competitions after the Olympics in Tokyo last August, where he was #6. Part of the reason was to restore energy before the Olympic qualifications start in 2023 and also as his wife Iva, #25 in the WCH in 2019, gave birth to Hugo at the beginning of May. During the last ten months, the 29-year-old has redpointed 20 routes 9a to 9b and onsighted ten routes 8b+ to8c+. The only IFSC comps he has done in 2022 were the European Bouldering Cup in Prague in 1/5 and the Chamonix Lead World Cup, winning both.

How much and How did you prepare for the Chamonix World Cup?

I took a break when Hugo was born to have more time to really enjoy those special moments. After 3 weeks I got slowly back into it and I reckoned that Chamonix would be good timing to get back into shape. So it was around 5 weeks. Training for lead comps is the most enjoyable for me as it includes bouldering on spraywall, occasional bouldering at my home crag when the weather is good, doing circuits on my home wall and climbing on the lead wall in Brno. Pretty much similar preparation like for outdoor sport climbing projects. Carrying Hugo around the home is a great active recovery:-) I went on the rock a few times when there were some colder days in Slovakia to Krpcovo (3h away) and Derava skala (1h20min away). Both crags have quite a bit of potential and I will definitely be back. It was a wonderful time as long as I don't have to train for speed and I can enjoy my time with my wonderful family.

What are your competition and rock plans for 2022?
I am planning to do European Championships in Munich and then only rock climbing until spring next year. Quite a few projects in my mind around Europe and hopefully we will be able to travel around as the whole family with Iva and Hugo.