30 November 2019
Speed Drama in Lead
YiLing Song, the Speed specialist who was #2 in that event, was the lucky #9 overall and nevertheless got a ticket although not making it to the Top-8a final. The reason for this is that both Ai Mori, the only one to Top out, and Futaba Ito can not get a ticket as the Japan country quota has already been filled. Furthermore, the Slovenians, Lucka Rakovec #2 overall and Mia Krampl #3 overall, are fighting for only one remaining place to Tokyo.
X. Ai Mori JPN 44
1. Lucka Rakovec SLO 45
2. Mia Krampl SLO 120
3. Laura Rogara ITA 256
X. Futaba Ito JPN 392
4. Julia Chanourdie FRA 420
5. Iuliia Kaplina RUS RUS 441
6. Kyra Kondie USA 528
9. YiLing Song CHN 760
Complete results
Unlucky #10 overall was Fanny Gibert. If she had done one more move she would have advanced to the Olympic. In any case, she will have one more chance during the European Combined Championship. Noteworthy is that USA has now filled their quota meaning the Allanah Yip from Canada is the big favorite to get the ticket in the Combined Pn-American Championship.
It should also be mentioned that three female speed specialists have qualified to Tokyo. Furthermore, it is almost certain that either Anouck Jaubert or Di Niu will get the Tripartite ticket. This means that we could end up with two female Speed specialists getting through to the final and one of them getting a medal.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


