12 April 2015

Extensive Adam Ondra interview with focus on training

Adam Ondra has been interviewed by Training Beta, which publishes interesting training articles. In a 71 minute interview, Adam discusses a number of topics such as being coached by Patxi Usobiaga, training up to 6 days a week, sometimes 3 times a day. He occasionally uses a weight vest and does specific bouldering drills and campus board exercises. His daily routine for the most busy periods is rather intense. He wakes up very early to train at the campus board before attending university classes. He might train a second time in the middle fo the day before other classes and then again in the evening, showing great self-discipline with his time management. He thinks itย’s possible to do 9c and heย’s looking forward to trying. Adam eats whole foods and tries to follow a diet of unprocessed food. He doesnย’t crave junk food nor does he eat it. He considers dried fruit a good treat, for example. He eats meat a couple of times a week and tries to include a vegetable protein source in every meal. He thinks body weight matters, but has never ย“dietedย” and now weighs between 65 and 70 kilos.
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Jamie Emerson is currently in Switzerland where he and his friends are steadily sending hard and classic problems. In visiting Cresciano he ran into Adam Ondra making quick work of Dreamtime, 8B+. A video of Adam on the problem can be found on Jamie's website where you can also find high quality phโ€ฆ
Adam Ondra has done two 8c+'s in Frankenjura, Planets Collide and Matador which Markus Bock put up in 2007 and suggested 9a for. Adam says, "in my opinion more 8c+ than 9a, but others should feel free to say more about grade". He also did Showdown, 8c "Stiff grading from nineties, I was very lucky".โ€ฆ
1. 89: Fabrice landry FRA - Matilde Brumagne BEL 1. 91: Mario Lechner AUT - Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS 1. 93: Adam Ondra CZE - Berit Schwaiger AUT Overall, the Austrians dominated as always and in the youngest female category, 4 out of the Top-7 were Austrian girls born -94!