27 November 2018
Evolution 8c+ by Ben Moon (52)
In 1990, Ben Moon made the FA of Hubble at Ravens Tor as the world's first 8c+. Today many think it should be upgraded to 9a. Three years ago he repeated Rainshadow 9a and now he once again show the uniqueness in climbing in regards age and performance by doing Evolution 8c+ at Ravens Tor. "Itโs a great end to the year for me which has been one of the best of the past 35 years climbing." (c) Moon Climbing
"To be honest I didnโt really do anything different in my training. Just a lot of indoor bouldering and quite a bit of low intensity, high volume climbing (aero cap). I also climbed a lot outside this year. We had amazing weather for most of the year. In May and June I was mainly trying Northern Lights and came pretty close, definitely the best year yet on that route and then easier routes in the Peak District during the summer. I did a route called Hajj at Ravens Tor about 3 weeks ago and although it only gets 8c, several people who have climbed this route and another of the Mecca extensions called Kaaba (8c+) say itโs harder. Hajj is one of the Mecca extensions so you do Mecca to a good rest then you do a route 8b which probably has a Font 7c boulder on it. Really crimpy like most routes at Ravens Tor. I felt fit and strong after doing this route which was good preparation for Evolution.
The crux of Evolution is the start which is probably a 3 move Font 8a and then you are straight into a route 8b with no rests. The route is a classic Tor route, sustained bouldering on vicious crimps and a real test of finger strength. I was at the Tor the other day when Pete Dawson did it which was great to see. We both agree that there probably isnโt a full grade difference between Evolution and Rainshadow. Maybe Evolution is hard 8c+ and Rainshadow easy 9a. I think Northern Lights is in a different league grade wise to all these other routes and I reckon one day will be considered 9a+. Time will tell but only 3 ascents in 18 yearsโฆ."
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