Eva Hammelmüller does two 8c+’ in Mallorca

Eva Hammelmüller has sent Odisey (8c+) and Mallorkaos L2 (8c+) in Mallorca. During her last four climbing days, the 24-year-old did also send four 8b+ or 8c’s. (c) Lea Kempf

Can you tell us more about your trip to Mallorca and your most memborable ascents?
The hardest route I sent this week was ‚Odisey‘ 8c+. Climbing this massive line was a totally new experience for me, as I had never ever climbed in such a steep roof before. I loved the process of figuring out in which sequences it’s easier to climb feet first, and how many 360 degree turns you need to save as much energy as possible, as the crux part is right at the end of the roof. The hardest move for me was the nerve-wracking and powerful dyno into a good pocket over the roof edge.l In order to keep it together all the way to the top, I needed to fight not only my pumped forearms but as well my biceps and core pump.😂 Checked it out one day and sent it first go on my second day!!! Despite the chipped holds in the roof, I had SO MUCH FUN in this line!!! In this crag, I could also do the first repetition of 'Guiris go home‘ 8c/+ after a hold broke, which created a cool 2-move boulder problem that cost me quite some nerves on the first day. :D

Probably my favourite route of this trip was 'Mallorkaos L2‘. This route is not only demanding regarding finger strength on crimps and pockets, but as well concerning powerful moves, underclings and gastons. When I first checked it out, it for sure felt like 8c+, but I then sent it surprisingly quickly on my third go - that's why I am not 100% sure about the grade. In coordination with local climbers, we propose 8c+, but curious what other climbers will think! Anyway, AMAZING climb and thanks a lot to the local climbing community for the warm welcome and the hospitality!! <3

On the same day at the very end after climbing another 8b+, I tried ‚Xulita‘ 8b+/c just because the line looked amazing. However, I somehow managed to fall while clipping the second quickdraw due to a footslip and found myself back on the ground. At that point, I found it very funny, and just started again… and then, I didn’t fall all the way to the top!! This could have been my hardest flash if I had focused a bit more in the beginning. Well, I guess I learned my lesson :D. Thanks to Julie for shouting up all the beta despite a sore throat, you are the best!

To sum up, I had such a great week, thanks team, thanks girls, and thanks again to everyone we met at the crags for the hospitality!