24 November 2022

Era Vella 8c+/9a (9a) by Anghelo Bernal

Anghelo Bernal has done Era Vella 8c+/9a in Margalef, after projecting it for 80+ sessions. Era Vella is the 2010 Chris Sharma classic 5-star route that was the most repeated 9a in the world until 2016 when it was downgraded. Later it has seen much less traffic and there has been a rumor of a broken hold bringing it back to 9a again?

It has been a common project with Tim Emmett and the first time we tried the route was in 2017 a couple of weeks, then in 2019 a couple of months, and this year it has been approximately two months. When Tim returned to Canada I did work on it as I wanted to do the project with him. Yesterday it was me and now I’m waiting for him to do it too. It is more than a route, it is a bond of friendship on the same road.” (The picture is from 2019)

Tim did not send but has continuously posted reports on Insta describing the roller-coaster emotions about the journey. The 49-year-old has returned back to Canada and is already looking forward to the next chapter of his journey.

Is it true that Era Vella has become harder?
Bernal: A couple of years ago, Tim broke one foothold, although the handholds are the same.

Emmett: I use a different sequence now and so does Anghelo. It might be a tiny bit harder but not significant.

Could you describe the route?
It is a path of great resistance. The route is divided into three parts; the first meters before the roof are easy, then you make the roof, and there you can rest, for me the route in general begins in that part, the second part is 15 meters of an overhang of about 45 degrees very intense and you do not rest until you pass the crux, the third part is about 20 final meters to hold on. What has become more difficult for me are the distances of the bolts, they add a psychological point.
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