Emily Nicole does Power Slave (8A+)

Emily Nicole has completed Power Slave (8A+), her first of the grade, in Gateway Canyon.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I gravitate towards overhanging, powerful problems with small holds and decent feet so Power Slave was exactly what I was looking for in a boulder. The first two sessions I was able to do every move except the crux. I spent the next 3 months building up endurance on the bottom moves so I would have a chance at sticking the crux from the start. By month 3 I could only do the crux in isolation 25% of the time, and it was 5 moves in. I don’t climb at the gym and during this time I didn’t climb anything else outside, I just ran laps on Power Slave and kept dialing in every possible micro-beta.

It was starting to get hot in Vegas but there was a window of better temps and everything aligned for me to walk away with the send! I started climbing 24 years ago so bouldering v12 is something I’ve dreamed about for a long time. I’m so psyched!!!