6 May 2020

Emily, Kai and Beth and eating disorders

Emily Harrington, Kai Lightner and Beth Rodden have recently talked about how they got eating disorder due to climbing. They speak openly about how trainers, the community and their performance drive forced them to eat as little as possible. Everyone know that this is a problem in climbing and it is very good some of the famous athletes have taken it up. In 2014, IFSC measured the BMI in the WCH and sent out a message to male below 17 and female below 18. Many federations like Austria and Norway monitor this and you are not allowed to compete below certain standards in regards gender and age. In 2008, 8a first addressed the problem asking the community, Should we make a recommendation of BMI > 17, for scorecard users?. In fact it started a storm of criticism but anyhow other media took it up. The biggest dilemma witheating disorder and climbing relates to youth and lead competitions. Possibly IFSC could do more monitoring the situation and actually ask the route setters to focus more on power instead of hanging around in big roofs. As a matter of a fact, limiting the climbing time as have been done should most probably favor more healthy climbers.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
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Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
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