6 May 2020
Emily, Kai and Beth and eating disorders
Emily Harrington, Kai Lightner and Beth Rodden have recently talked about how they got eating disorder due to climbing. They speak openly about how trainers, the community and their performance drive forced them to eat as little as possible. Everyone know that this is a problem in climbing and it is very good some of the famous athletes have taken it up.
In 2014, IFSC measured the BMI in the WCH and sent out a message to male below 17 and female below 18. Many federations like Austria and Norway monitor this and you are not allowed to compete below certain standards in regards gender and age.
In 2008, 8a first addressed the problem asking the community, Should we make a recommendation of BMI > 17, for scorecard users?. In fact it started a storm of criticism but anyhow other media took it up.
The biggest dilemma witheating disorder and climbing relates to youth and lead competitions. Possibly IFSC could do more monitoring the situation and actually ask the route setters to focus more on power instead of hanging around in big roofs. As a matter of a fact, limiting the climbing time as have been done should most probably favor more healthy climbers.
11 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


