Ellipsis 8b+ Mix MP FA by Jernej Kruder

Wednesday, 9 September

Jernej Kruder, Boulder World Cup winner overall in 2018, has made the FA of Ellipsis Mix; 7b+, 7a+, 8a, 8b+ and 7c in Bila Pec. The 200-meter line was put up ground up together with Gašper Pintar and David Debeljak in 2018, using mainly trad gear and also some 40 bolts and pitons. All anchors bolted and the 30 meter hardest pitch was protected with two big cams and six bolts. "Opening it up, they were doing the "alpine" parts. I was the guy with the drill and skyhook." (c) Mark Grmek and Luka Fonda

Fun fact: The day before the multi-pitch FA, he made a 9a in Slovenia. The next day included 2.5 hours driving to Italy and one hour walk before starting to climb. Ten days ago, he won a DWS event in Ljubjana based on a no-feet format he invented. Last weekend the 29-year-old was #2 in the Slovenia Boulder Nationals although the whole summer he has spent only three, rainy days, in the gym. His possible next plan is to go for Jacopo Larcher's potential 9a trad climb, Tribe. The long term plan is to make it to Tokyo during the Euro Combined Championship in Moscow in December! (If that event is cancelled he will make it anyway due to his result in the 2019 Combined World Championship.) Including also three 9a+', out of which one DWS, and four 8C boulders, the Slovenian was recently listed as #2, after Adam Ondra, as the best all round climber in the world.

1  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date D Reply A

RELATED NEWS

NUMBERS

Tuesday, 19 January

Add crags to the database

We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.

NUMBERS

Monday, 12 October

Systematic Devaluing ethics

Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…

EDITORIAL

Wednesday, 18 May

No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs

During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …