18 March 2023

Eight 8a+ to 8b+ onsights by Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra reports on Insta that he has been on a โ€family vacationโ€ trip to Malta. "Spending a lot of time with family and getting rest for the hard training ahead of me! It was nice getting to know the small climbing community in Malta ๐Ÿ’ช" In the end, he onsighted eight routes 8a+ and harder, meaning the 30-year-old is approaching 500 such graded onsights. (c) Stephen Farrugia

The hardest onsights on the island were actually (probably) two FAs in Melieha Cave;
Winds of Change (8b+): "Start to the right to Aint Sane in the Membrane, finish like the Down in a Hole. Hard start, then a total nohands and a tricky boulder. Definitely being tall helps. Giving a grade on my onsight try and being 8th 8th-grade route of the day doesn't help. Thanks Simon and Stevo for an amazing day!"

Fight Club (8b): "Start like November Rain, but go direct in the end. probably first ascent? Roof climbing on tufa at its best."

Adam also probably made the FA of a previously chipped route, Tunnel Vision (8b+) in Mgarr Ix-xini. "Short burly route just above the little "tunnel" when you approach the gorge. If you use the chipped pocket in between the 3rd and 4th bolt, it is probably 8a. Without, I think it is pretty hard 8A boulder."
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1. 89: Fabrice landry FRA - Matilde Brumagne BEL 1. 91: Mario Lechner AUT - Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS 1. 93: Adam Ondra CZE - Berit Schwaiger AUT Overall, the Austrians dominated as always and in the youngest female category, 4 out of the Top-7 were Austrian girls born -94!