28 January 2016

Edelrid OHM balancing weight differences

A petite belayer makes the falls softer but with a 33% weight difference it starts to get dangerous. In the gyms, the smaller climber can often attach some 15 kilograms to their harness but in reality it is not practical and it can be a big problem outdoors. With all the new kids in our sport, the weight difference problem is increasing. At ISPO 2016 Edelrid presented an OHM balancing weight differences, which won the IPSO award. The OHM works like an assisted braking resistor that you place in the first bolt. The friction is increased and helps the lighter climber not to be pulled high from the ground or thrown against the wall. One potential downside is, however, that when your partner is high up with a lot of rope drag it will be harder to give a dynamic fall unless you have a friend removing the OHM.
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