14 November 2009

Dreamtime is still alive

Michele Caminati found that a crucial hold on Dreamtime had broken. Together with Akito Matsushima, they found that the sequence is still possible and he says, "Please don't glue back anything." Dreamtime at Cresciano is the classic 8B+, originally given 8C by FA Fred Nicole in 2000. Rumours say it has been downgraded due to chipping, but not everybody agrees on this.
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Michele Caminati has done his second 8B+, in Fontainebleau, Kheops Assis and third in total. The suggested grade by the FA was 8C, but all previous repetitors; Graham, Schulte and Landman, also have it as an 8B+.
Adam Ondra and Chloe Graftiaux did seven out of the eight boulders. Adam Ondra flashed four problems. Six boulders: Michele Caminati, Guillaume Glairon-Mondet, Gabriele Moroni, Stefano Ghisolfi Six boulders: Barbara Zangerl and Alexandra Balakireva - 6. No grades yet, but we will see how they willโ€ฆ
8B+ by Michele Caminati
13 December 2010

8B+ by Michele Caminati

Michele Caminati has done his fifth 8B+, The Dagger in Cresciano. "Crazy climb... monkey's style! Don't think is possible to give a proper grade to that thing. โ€ฆ