Dreamtime 8C (B+) by Austin Purdy

20 January 2022

Austin Purdy, who previously has done 20 8B+ and two 8C's, has done Dreamtime 8C (8B+) in Cresciano. Last year, the 24-year-old did set some kind of record jumping from a 7c+ PB on routes to doing his first 9a.

"Dreamtime is such an iconic line and has inspired me for a very long time and really stuck with me when I first visited Ticino in 2019, but at the time I was focused on trying Story of 2 Worlds on the other side of the boulder. When I returned from my trip I constantly thought about wanting to go back to do Dreamtime, but shortly after the pandemic hit and it wasn't possible until now. Luckily I was able to return this year after finishing grad school and Dreamtime was the first thing I went to. I quickly realized that it felt well within my abilities, but it still didn't go down without a fight!"
3  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date A Reply A

MOST COMMENTED

EDITORIAL

5 December 2022

Garnbret wants strict BMI rules in 2023

In a 40 min interview at the IFSC Climbing Summit, Janja Garnbret was very straightforward about BMI testing. She referred to a survey in Innsbruck where it later was stated that: 16 % of female athletes have no menstruation and 22 % reported that they currently struggle with an eating disorder. …

34
Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)

12 January 2023

Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi has done Open your mind (8c+) in Santa Linya. The Ukrainian made his first 8a news at age eleven when he did his first three 8c’s as we…

31

EDITORIAL

21 January 2023

Is onsight climbing on life support?

During the last few years, we have seen plenty of advancement when it comes to redpointing ability globally. In just the last three years, we saw close to 150 9a+ ascents which can be compared to only ten 9a+ ascents per year, last decade. Ten years ago, Alex Megos onsighted Estado critico (9a) but…

29

RELATED

The Story Of 2 Worlds by Andy "Peter" Lamb

15 March 2022

The Story Of 2 Worlds by Andy "Peter" Lamb

Andy Lamb has done The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) in Cresciano. This is the third classical 8C he has done in 2022 after Dreamtime (8C) and The Big Island (8C). In …

1

30 October 2021

Dreamtime 8B+ (C) by Killian Chabrier

Killian Chabrier has done Dreamtime 8B+ (C) in Cresciano, Insta video. "I just needed two sessions to do Dreamtime the first mythical “8C” Boulder, maybe one of the best Boulder I’ve tried. Really happy to do it despite a bit of pressure caused by the bad weather. For the grade, I saw that répétitor…

0
Dreamtime 8C (B+) by Marco Müller

8 January 2022

Dreamtime 8C (B+) by Marco Müller

Marco Müller has done Fred Nicole's classical Dreamtime 8C (B+) in Cresciano using the original dyno beta. "I finally decided to try this megaclassic in Crescia…

0