Downgrades not by average opinions but also by facts
EDITORIAL
Sunday, 7 February
The latest example of this is The Big Island in Fontainebleau, which until two weeks ago was the most repeated 8C with 20+ ascents. Then Lucien Martinez did it calling it 8B+ and now also Antoine Kauffmann said the same thing. Basically, both of them used the fact that they had never done an 8B+ before as part of their logic saying it could not be 8C.
Here is the first 8a grading article from 2002. "Rating is based on individual subject suggestions and confirmed by facts and results by the climbing community.
In other words, in some cases, individuals and the media could actually suggest downgrades even if they have never been on the site. 8a has done this for the last 20 years in order to try to present as correct news as possible. If the next repeater of The Big Island calls it 8B+, we will start reporting it as such.
RELATED NEWS
NUMBERS
Tuesday, 19 January
Add crags to the database
We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.
NUMBERS
Monday, 12 October
Systematic Devaluing ethics
Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…
EDITORIAL
Wednesday, 18 May
No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs
During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …
FAVORITES
NUMBERS
Tuesday, 19 January
Add crags to the database
We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.
NUMBERS
Monday, 12 October
Systematic Devaluing ethics
Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…
EDITORIAL
Wednesday, 18 May
No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs
During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …
MOST COMMENTED
NUMBERS
Tuesday, 19 January
Add crags to the database
We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.
NUMBERS
Monday, 12 October
Systematic Devaluing ethics
Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…
EDITORIAL
Wednesday, 18 May
No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs
During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …