3 June 2023

Dohyun Lee wins in Prague

Dohyun Lee from Korea, #7 overall last year, got his first World Cup victory by winning in Prague, needing only five attempts to do all four boulders. The runner-up was Adam Ondra (CZE) who used 13 attempts for all problems competing in front of his home crowd. Mejdi Schalck (FRA), who won the first two events this spring, got the bronze flashing three boulders. Interestingly all six finalists represent different countries. The fourth spot was claimed by Yoshiyuki Ogata (JPN), followed by Yannick Flohรฉ (GER) and Jan-Luca Posch (AUT). Complete results (c) Jan Virt/IFSC Ondra commented to IFSC: "Itโ€™s been so nice to be back on the circuit, especially in my home country. Itโ€™s been 13 years since the last World Cup event in Czechia, and the only one I participated in was in my hometown of Brno, when I was 16 and I barely missed the final, it was so frustrating, so this is a good revenge!"
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ