18 March 2018

Who onsighted and redpointed 9a first?

Estado Critico was set up in 2004 as a 9a but was later down graded. In 2010, a hold broke and it was back to 9a and in 2013 Alex Megos made his historical onsight. Several climbers have later confirmed that grade but also 8c+ have been forwarded by Gonzalo Larrocha as he found a new sequence. Last week Jon Cardwell and Matty Hong did it in just six respectively three tries saying their personal grade would be 8c+. One year before Megos onsigted Estado Critico, Adam Ondra onsighted Golden Ticket down grading it to 8c+. Later Adam has onsighted three 9a's which all have been confirmed. As of now, Megos should be credited for onsighting the first 9a but it just might be that a new sequence have been found of Estado Critico and Ondra should get the historical fame? When it comes to redpointing, it seems Ben Moon and the UK scene thinks that based on the current gradings, Hubble done in 1990 should be considered the first 9a. Action Direct was given an UIIA grade equivalent to 8c+/9a in 1991 but has later been upgraded although an easier sequence have been found.
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