Delphine Chenevier, 47, sends Courte patte (8b+)

Delphine Chenevier, who did her first 8b+ last October, has done Courte patte (8b+) in . She did her first 8b more than twenty years ago and in 1999, she placed #6 in a Boulder World Cup.

Can you tell us more about Courte patte and how you have been able to perform so well of late?
I’m super happy to send this new 8b+, quite rapidly (5 sessions). It’s a very bouldery route that requires finger strength. It’s a short route of 15m :-), with the crux that is an intense boulder section of 7 movements. It’s clearly the result of the good training done since one year with the coaches from La Fabrique Verticale, Olivier Broussouloux and Laurence Guyon.


What does a normal climbing week look like for you?
I don’t have a "normal" climbing week…it depends on my professional life, and how busy I am. I try to do one short after-work session on the rock, even if the conditions are not the best (finishing with a headlamp as I don’t have a lot of time), then one finger/power session on the Moon board or hangboard and 2 climbing session during the weekend, ideally on the rock (even if it’s rainy, cold, windy) or on the moon board.

Mixing rock climbing and training on the hangboard/Moon board/yoga/core training, on 4 weeks (one month) = between 16 and 20 but always short sessions as I don’t have a lot of time because of my professional activity :-)

What do you have in mind next?
Perhaps trying an 8c …but before all, to continue to enjoy climbing on the rock and discovering new routes around Grenoble. The route developers are very active in Grenoble and there are always new routes!